All about facials

Getting a facial is one of the best investments you can make in yourself. That's the advice of aestheticians, experts trained in skin-care and to provide facials. Not only can a facial make your skin look better, it's also a great way to clean out pores which are beleaguered by weather, pollution and stress.

A lot of us are investing in our faces these days. The net result is often softened wrinkles, better skin tone, brighter complexions, fewer break-outs, improved firmness, and, relaxation. Defying Mother Nature is big business; the skin-care products industry is expected to grow as much as 40 percent this year. Last year, $1.4 billion was spent at salons in skin-care products alone, according to Kathy Shingara, director of the Institute of Aesthetic Arts and Sciences (IAAS) in Southbury, Conn.

"Skin-care is the fastest-growing portion of the beauty industry today," said Shingara. "This I know."

As more baby-boomers search for ways to turn back the clock, and encourage their daughters to begin good skin-care early, facials are an affordable way to do something special for yourself. Averaging about $50 for 45 minutes to an hour, facials are a lot less expensive than the more serious chemical peels, laser procedures and botox injections. At some high-priced salons, however, facials can run $100 and more.

Even some dermatologists agree that facials can help. But doctors, somewhat less enthusiastic about the anti-aging power of facials, advise you to be sure the person doing your facial is well trained. No picking or digging for blackheads, says Dr. Meryl Joerg, a New York City dermatologist and member of the American Academy of Dermatology. "Don't ever do anything that would break the skin."

Shingara, who has been teaching aestheticians for more than 30 years, says that facials shouldn't break the skin. "The basis of a good facial is to reestablish balance in the skin and prevent aging," she said. The best ones are always customized to a woman's specific skin needs.

The biggest problem facing women today, she said, is loss of moisture. Our skin is exposed to sun, wind, air conditioning and heat, which are very aggressive to skin.

"Leave it up to the facial professional to decide what she thinks your skin needs," said Laura Hittleman, director of beauty services at Canyon Ranch spa in Lenox, Mass. "A good standard rule is to start with a European facial; just a good solid facial with nothing specialized."

In the world of marketing hype, what does "European facial" mean? A European facial is a generic term for a good cleansing, exfoliation, skin analysis, massage and mask, according to Hittleman. Lots of women come in asking for a European facial, but all it really means is a good cleaning, she adds.

There are literally thousands of names for facials, said Shingara. Every salon and beauty products company has its own way of labeling and marketing facials. For example, Canyon Ranch has an "Oxygen facial." Are they adding oxygen? No, they say they're preparing your skin to receive more oxygen during the day. The IAAS offers several glycolic acid facials and special hydrating formulations, in addition to the basic facial. "I like to think of it all as practicing good skin-care, not necessarily getting a facial," said Shingara. Other trendy facials can also include vitamin C, freeze-dried seaweed and essential oils.

Popular now is a power peel or microdermabrasion, according to Dr. H. Debra Jaliman, a clinical instructor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City. With microdermabrasion, fine grains of aluminum oxide are forced over the skin under high pressure, she said. This process exfoliates dead skin and stimulates collagen production, the skin's component that adds support and elasticity. Having this will run you about $175 to $200 in salons, and be prepared to see some redness afterwards.

Exfoliation is key ito good skin. Dead skin cells naturally slough off once a month, but the process slows down as we age. A good facial can boost the exfoliation process.

WHAT TO EXPECT DURING A FACIAL
In a good facial, expect the aesthetician to first analyze your skin and decide what type of products to use. Next, she'll do a deep cleansing. Good cleansing rids the face of makeup residue, as well as wipes away pollution.

Next comes exfoliation to get dead cells off. The trend today is in non-abrasive exfoliation, products that penetrate into the pores without any scrubbing. "When you keep as many dead cells off as possible, new cells can find their way to the top and you'll look better," said Shingara. Exfoliation also helps restore lost moisture. Dry skin doesn't regenerate itself well, she said.

Toner is the next step, usually sprayed in a fine mist to restore balance to the skin. A toner shouldn't take the place of a good cleanser, however, its purpose isn't to remove residue that you should have gotten off with your cleanser.

Depending on what's going on with your face, the next step would be a special treatment. Oily skin would have different products applied than dry skin. Someone might be fighting blackheads, while another may be plagued with redness. Sometimes gentle steam is applied to help the skin absorb the products. Alphahydroxy (AHA) products may be used during this step for a glycolic facial. AHAs are great for helping to regenerate the skin.

Ah, the massage, that comes next. The aesthetician will usually apply a cream to moisturize and nourish your face and massage it in for a few minutes.

The mask, usually a clay mixture, then soaks up excess oil as well as brightens and tones the skin. There are many types of masks available today.

Application of a day or night cream is the finishing touch. Day creams protect and moisturize, night creams nourish.

You should see a difference in your skin right away. It should appear brighter, firmer and freshened. A facial shouldn't make you break out; if that's happening, it's not the right product for you.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I GET A FACIAL?
The experts agree once a month if you can afford it. If your budget won't allow that frequency, then at least as the seasons change. Getting one before winter and one for the summer will help shore up your complexion for the war against the elements. A good rule of thumb: When you change wardrobes, get a facial, said Hittleman.

SIDEBARS

TOP TIPS FROM THE AESTHETICIANS
• Never go to bed with makeup on. Skin regenerates itself at night, and makeup clogs the process.
• Don't overdo it. More doesn't mean better, so slathering on three moisturizers isn't a good idea. Stick with one product that works.
• Use sunscreen. This is the best defense against photoaging and wrinkles.
• Recognize when a product isn't working, and switch to something better.
• Stay involved in your own skin care; read magazines, ask people how they care for their skin.
• Use a good cleanser, and both a day cream and a night cream. Day creams moisturize and protect, night creams nourish.
• Don't pick at blackheads, you may cause scarring.
• Never use soap, it can be drying. A good cleanser is better.
• Use an alphahydroxy acid product. AHAs are great exfoliators and slow the aging process. Recent studies indicate that AHAs may act as
free radical scavengers, helping to increase collagen production, according to Dr. Nicholas Lowe, author of "Skin Secrets: The Medical Facts versus the Beauty Fiction."

HOW TO FIND A GOOD AESTHETICIAN & FACE PLACE
• Network with people. If a woman's skin looks radiant, ask her where she goes.
• Find out if the aesthetician is licensed. Since not all states require licensing, ask how she was trained. How many hours of education does she have?
• Ask what type of facials they perform.
• Find out what the salon's philosophy is on skin care.
• Ask about the products they will use on your face.
• You should be able to learn from your aesthetician. Good ones will help you weed through all the marketing hype at the cosmetic counters.
They should guide you in what products are good for your particular skin type.

HOW TO KNOW IF A PRODUCT IS GOOD QUALITY
Thirty years ago, there used to be only a dozen or so skin-care lines. Today, however, there are hundreds. Marked "all-natural," "no preservatives," "with essential oils," "European formula." how does one know what to chose? Kathy Shingara says the best products have these qualities:
• Hydration as their No. 1 goal.
• Contain essential oils and plant extracts. These are natural and not synthetic preservatives, which may be irritating.
• Come in tubes and not jars to prevent contamination from your fingers.
• Contain "active" ingredients which are strong and work on your face yet aren't abrasive.

FACIALS FROM YOUR FRIDGE
While the experts say the best way to great-looking skin is through quality products, you don't always have to spend a fortune to get results. Although glycolic acids are made from sugar and fruit extracts, getting out the sugar bowl and orange juice pitcher won't do the same trick. But here are some quick fixes from your fridge that experts say work. Hey, they're worth a try.
• Avocado is hydrating. Egg whites are firming. Oatmeal and yogurt can be soothing. Make a mask of any combination of these products and
apply to a clean face. Leave on until dry.
• Lemon is a natural exfoliator. Try dabbing some on your face.
• Cucumbers can help remove puffiness from under the eyes. Lie down with two slices covering your eyes for a few minutes.

WORDS OF CAUTION FROM DERMATOLOGISTS
Not all the experts agree that facials can do what they say they can. For example, Dr. Marianne O'Donoghue, associate professor of dermatology at Rush Presbyterian-St. Luke Medical Center in Chicago, had this to say: "Facials, I don't like them at all." Dr. O'Donoghue said facials do nothing more than make you feel good. They can't reduce wrinkles or improve complexion. The only product that can do that, she said, is Retin-A or tretinoin, which requires a doctor's prescription. Serums with vitamin C and E are also helpful.

"The sun is the only thing that can prevent wrinkles," she said. She recommends wearing sunscreen 365 days a year to avoid photoaging.
Wear SPF 15 if you're in and out of the car all day, and at least SPF 30 if you're outside.

Besides not being all that they're cracked up to be, Dr. O'Donoghue says facials can actually damage your face if the aesthetician picks,
squeezes or rubs too hard.

Dr. H. Debra Jaliman, a clinical instructor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City, isn't a fan of facial massage. She said it can break down elastin and collagen, so be sure the massage is very gentle.

The doctors agreed, however, that a deep cleaning can be good for a woman with blackheads. Steaming the face and applying products that
can soften blackheads can help.

WEB SIGHTINGS
www.beautyworks.com
www.ebody.com
www.prevention.com

"Birthmarks: A Guide to Hemangiomas and Vascular Formations," by Linda Shannon